Pre colonial history of Bengal is closely linked with the emergence, growth and decline of Murshidabad. It has governed all the proceedings of the 18th century eastern India and provided the platform from which the colonial interests had launched themselves and subsequently became an Imperial power in 1857.
It is quite obvious that such a socio- political stage has enormous potential to engage any visitor from far and wide through its myriad cultural landscape. A seat of power of such a scale attracts lot of wealth, creativity and activity. For example the annual revenue of Bengal paid to the Mughal Emperor amounts to One Crore sicca Taka- in early seventeenth century was an unbelievable amount. In a cunning strategical move, Murshidkuli Khan shifted the administrative power centre of Bengal to the Bank of Bhagirathi- the prime life force of North India and almost in the geographic centre of the Province in 1701.
One primary policy decision triggered series of subsequent events. Sensing the potential for enhanced financial opportunity, trading community from âÂÂNagore' town in the Rajput State of Jodhpur migrated to Bengal. They settled in the areas of Mahimapur,Jyaganj and Azimganj and got themselves known as âÂÂShaherwali Community'. Over the years they accumulated enormous wealth and became an important factor governing the economy of Bengal. Mughal Emperor acknowledged their importance and had conferred the tile âÂÂJagat Seth' ( cashier of the world). Jainism spread rapidly with the prosperity of the community in the localities of Azimganj, Jiyaganj and Katgola. While Murshidabad was being built according to the muslim traditions, Hindu philosophies governed the development of the Jiyaganj, Azimganj.
In fact four of the important Jain Tirths in Bengal, three lies at Azimganj- Sree Chintamoni Parswanath Bhagwan, Jiyaganj- Shree Sambhavnath Bhagwa, Katgola- Sree Adinath Bhagwan.
The large havellis, Mansions, Palaces, Gardens lay neglected and weathered. It draws today certain amount of History, cultural enthusiast and that too on a day visit. Whereas its enormous potential for Cultural tourism and pilgrimage remained unexplored. Its old trade links and networks also lay dormant for the want of sponsors.
The circuit of Murshidabad-Jiyaganj-Azimganj is just waiting for the right kind of initiative and public support for its revitalization. Cultural tourism appears to be the right catalyst to trigger such an initiative.
No tourism initiative is sustainable unless it garners the support of its local community. Community initiatives are best when it rides on the pride for themselves and have a deep rooted attachment for the place. Fortunately the Shaherwali Community have a very strong social network bonded by the common religion of Jainism. They are very proud of their legacy and command large parcels of land, Heritage buildings, Artefacts and quite committed for its restoration. Being mainly a trader's community they value their assets and understand the need for its conservation. To them assistance of any kind is important and they also realises that unless they obtain public support their individual effort is not sustainable.
How to Reach
Murshidabad is well connected with Kolkata. The Air port of Kolkata is N. S. C. Bose International Airport at Dumdum. From Kolkata Berhampore the District capital town of Murshidabad is 195 Km. Tourist taxi, hired car, auto-rickshaw are available from Berhampore to visit the tourist spots at Murshidabad town, Azimganj, Jiaganj, Kandi, Sagardighi, Karnasuvarna.
1)Bus Service: Buses ply frequently from Kolkata (i.e. from Sahid Minar, Ultadanga etc) to Berhampore. Most of the North Bengal bound bus have a halt at Berhampore. Buses from nearby district town of West Bengal i.e. Burdwan, Rampurhat, Suri, Bolpur, Malda, Krishnagar and Durgapur regularly ply to Berhampore.
2)Train Service: Berhampore Court is the main station which is connected with Sealdah Station at Kolkata. The Bhagirathi Express & the Lalgola Passenger from the Sealdah Railway Station reach Berhampore Court Railway Station covering 197 km in 5 to 6 hours. (13113 / 13114) Hazarduari Express and (13117/13118) Dhanadhanye Express reaches Lalgola and Berhampore Court Stn from Kolkata Stn respectively. Khagraghat, the other station at the opposite bank of the river Bhagirathi is connected with the Howrah Station. Teesta Torsa, Kamrup, Hatey Bazare express have stoppage at Khagraghat Railway Station. The Khagraghat Railway station is also connected by local trains from Katwa, Salar, Bandel and Howrah. One can also reach Khagraghat Station from Howrah by Inttercity Express. Farakka is the most well connected railway station of this district. Farakka is 98 km by road from Berhampore and is connected by every express bus coming from Malda, Siliguri, Raiganj, Coochbihar, New Alipurduar, Gangtok, Balurghat, and Jalpaiguri. The following trains stop at new Farakka Junction. Also one can reach Berhampore from Azimganj. Teesta Torsa, Kamrup, Hatey Bazare, Kanchanjungha and Uttarbanga Express touch Azimganj Junction Railway Station. This place is well connected by bus from Berhampore.
Murshidabad - Attractions & Activities
Hazarduari
The Hazarduari Palace, or the palace with a thousand doors is the chief tourist attraction of Murshidabad. This three-storey palace was built in 1837 by Duncan McLeod for the Nawab Najim Humaun Jah, descendent of Mir Zafar. It has thousand doors (among which only 900 are real) and 114 rooms and 8 galleries, built in European architectural style. The total area of Hazarduari Palace is 41 acres. It is now a museum and has an exquisite collection of armoury, splendid paintings, exhaustive portraits of the Nawabs, various works of art including beautiful works of ivory (Murshidabad school) of China (European) and many other valuables. The Armoury has 2700 arms in its collections of which only few are displayed. Swords used by Shiraj-ud-Daulla and his grandfather, Nawab Alivardi Khan, can be seen here. The other attractions in this floor are Vintage Cars and Fittan Cars used by the Nawabs and their families.
The library containing rare collections is not accessible to the public unless special permission is obtained. The building, rectangular on plan ( 424 feet Long and 200 feet broad and 80 feet high). The Palace was used for holding the "Durbar" or meetings and other official work of the Nawabs and also as the residence of the high ranking British Officials.
The Imambara
Parallel to the north face of the Hazarduari Palace, stands the Nizamat Imambara, built in 1847 AD. by Nawab Nazim Mansoor Ali Khan Feradun Jah, son of Humayun Jah, at a cost of more than 6 lacs, after the Imambara built by Siraj-ud-Doula had been destroyed by fire. It took only eleven months to construct this Imambara. The Imambara, which is the largest in Bengal, is perhaps the largest in India.
Wasef Manzil
This Palace was built by Sir Wasef Ali Mirza, Nawab of Murshidabad. This beautiful Palace was also the residence of Nawab Wasef Ali Mirza. This palace is very near to the Hazarduari Palace and is near the South Gate. The staircases made of marble and beautiful statues of this Palace are worth seeing. The entry fee is Rupee 1 (Indian currency) for Indian nationals.
Katra Mosque
Katra Mosque is about one and a half km from Murshidabad Railway Station on the Berhampore-Lalgola Road. This imposing structure was built by Nawab Murshid Quli Khan in 1723-24 and it remains one of the most important tourist attractions. The gorgeous building with its huge domes and high minarets has a simple cemetery of the Nawab below the front staircase.
Jahankosha Canon
Jahan Kosha, a huge cannon, is about 1 km of Katra. It was built in the early 17th century by craftsman Janardan Karmakar of Dhaka. Kadam Sarif is a beautiful mosque near Jahan Kosha said to contain a replica of the footprint of Hazrat Mohammad, the prophet. The canon is 17.5 ft long and weighs 16,880 lb., with a girth of 5 feet at the touch hole end. The diameter of the touch hole is one and a half inches, and that of the orifice is 6 inches.
Jafarganj Cemetery
About half a mile from the Hazarduari Palace is Jafarganj the ruined palace of Mir Jafar. The Cemetery contains the tombs of the Nawab's Nazim, from Mir Jafar to Humayun Jah. Mir Jafar's father Syud Ahmed Nazafi, Alivardi Khan's sister, Shahkhanum, Mir Jafar's widows, Munni Begam and Babbu Begam, Mohamed Ali Khan, the brother and Ismail Ali Khan and Asraf Ali Khan, the sons-in-law of Mir Jafar, lie buried here. This cemetery was built by Mir Jafar, over an area of 3.51 acres.
Khosh Bagh Khosh Bagh lies on the opposite banks of Bhagirathi. The grave of Nawab Alivardi Khan, Alivardi's Mother, Siraj-ud-Doula and his wife Lutfannesha and other members of the Nawab family lie here. The Khosh Bagh cemetery is built over 7.65 acres of land.
Katgola Palace Katgola, the palace garden of Raja Dhanpat Singh Dugar and Lakshmipat Singh Dugar and their famous Adinath Temple were built in 1873, by Harreck Chand. The walls of this temple are also intricately designed. A typically Jain style of ornamentation lends a unique beauty to this Jain temple. It is about half a km South-East of Mahimapur. Though some of its glory has been lost, it still remains a major tourist attraction, chiefly because of the beautiful temple with an admirable work of stucco.
Nasipur Palace
Nasipur Palace is about one and a half km from Murshidabad Railway Station on the Berhampore-Lalgola Road. This imposing structure was built by Nawab Murshid Quli Khan in 1723-24 and it remains one of the most important tourist attractions. The gorgeous building with its huge domes and high minarets has a simple cemetery of the Nawab below the front staircase.
Footi mosque Footi Mosque is an unfinished work by Nawab Sarafraz Khan. Though not well publicised, it is worth seeing for its unique architectural style. About three quarters of a mile to the east of the Hazarduari Palace, at Kumrapore, is the Footi Masjid. It is said to have been built by Sarafraj Khan in a single night.
Moti Jheel
Motijheel is about one km South of Lalbagh. This beautiful horseshoe shaped lake was excavated by Nawazesh Mohammad, the husband of the famous Ghasseti Begum. In the palace adjoining it (now in ruins) Lord Clive celebrated the acquisition of the Dewani of Sube Bangla (Bengal, Bihar & Orissa) in 1765. Moti Jheel was the home of Warren Hastings when he became the Political President at the Durbar of the Nawab Nazim ( 1771 - 73 AD ). Sir John Shore, afterwards Lord Teinmouth, also lived here. Moti Jheel is also known as the "Company Bagh", due to the fact of it having been in the occupation of the East India Company. The only old building existing is the Mosque of Shahamat Jang